Renowned for their impeccable tailoring and contemporary, avant-garde approach, Dutch “fashion artists” Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are all about unconventional drama. Fall/Winter 2018 marks the third Viktor&Rolf Mariage collection, and focuses on “mingling 60’s sculptural couture influences and signature elements” of the brand.
Precision is the name of the game here. Silhouettes are graphic; construction is sculptural. The brand’s typical bows, flowers and voluminous tulle are all present, their use deliberate and calculated. Designs are focused, with each look getting its impact from no more than one or two bold elements. A smoothly contoured strapless bodice balances a many-tiered trumpet skirt trimmed with rows of crystal beading. A sleek column is accented with a stiff oversized bow above a rippling train. A ball gown’s flared peplum is sprinkled with pearls and held up by straps made from delicate floral rosettes.
Particularly striking are the collections short offerings, with hemlines hitting the models’ mid-thigh. A long-sleeved baby doll scattered with 3D floral gives us serious Mary Quant vibes. A V-neck fit-and-flare with exactingly placed beading (and pockets!) makes for the perfect party dress. A sharply tailored romper with generously cut leg openings gets its drama upon exit from a giant bow that does double duty as a floor sweeping train.
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