With his penchant for perfectly-tailored suits and immaculately knotted ties, Suits lawyer Harvey Spector has a reputation as one of the best-dressed characters on TV. When actor Gabriel Macht received his invitation to co-star Meghan Markle’s nuptials he clearly had no choice but to keep the bar high. To create an ensemble worthy of royalty, Macht turned to Michael Nguyen, founder and head tailor at Toronto’s Garrison Bespoke.
“Given the gravity and importance of the wedding, the suit needed to be completely different,” says Nguyen, who also creates Macht’s wardrobe for the show. “Normally when we do a tuxedo or suit we consult with a client to understand what the use is, what the wedding is like and even what they’ll use it for after. Here there was a lot of research into what Harry might wear to the wedding, because what he would wear would inform how formal to go.” Making an educated guess that the Duke of Sussex would wear full military regalia, Nguyen steered Macht towards a morning suit, among the most specialized pieces of menswear still in regular use.
A three-piece ensemble with long, flowing tails, the morning suit is traditionally paired with striped trousers and is worn only on the most formal of occasions. It is, Nguyen says, also among the most challenging things to make, requiring twice as many fittings as a standard suit. “There’s always debate about the length of it. A lot of people want it to be long to show off the length, but when it’s long it makes you look shorter, so it can be not the most flattering thing to wear,” he says. Additionally, creating tails that sit straight, without flapping or creasing, requires precise engineering. To solve this problem, Nguyen sewed weights into the tail’s seam to keep it in place.
Macht and Nguyen took Meghan and Harry’s casual, contemporary outlook into account when deciding on the suit’s fabric, updating it from the traditional stiff wool jacket and striped trousers to a soft, luxurious cashmere. “When it comes to dressing up, people want something that feels like them, something that represents their own personality and style,” says Nguyen. This was clearly evident in the result, which was a look worthy of Harvey Spector himself.